1547-1619Nicholas Hilliard
Nichollas Hilliard was born in Exeter into a prosperous family of goldsmiths, a training that shaped his lifelong approach to portrait miniatures as both image and precious object. For Hilliard, portrait miniatures were conceived as jewels: intimate, portable objects designed to be worn, exchanged, and displayed. His work is distinguished by the meticulous rendering of jewels, lace, and ruffs, achieved through highly refined techniques that give these small-scale images a striking material presence. After returning from a period of exile in Geneva during his youth, he established himself in London, where in 1562 he started his apprenticeship with Robert Brandon, the Queen’s jeweller. This connection, together with the patronage of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, introduced him to the Elizabethan court, where he became the principal limner to Elizabeth I.
Hilliard’s practice was shaped through direct exchanges with the Queen, whom he described in his book, A Treatise Concerning the Arte of Limning, written around 1600, as favouring minimal shadow to preserve clarity and idealisation. During his life, Hilliard experienced financial struggles. Being named official limner to Elizabeth did not guarantee a salaried position; therefore, Hilliard maintained a London workshop, offering his services to those who could afford them. His situation worsened because of his tendency to stand as surety for the debts of others.